What if the characters of 90s TV shows had already mastered style?
It’s been almost a year since I took my wife’s advice and we started watching FRIENDS again, and it was surprisingly amazing. The very style I’d been trying so hard to create for my brand was right there, dancing before my eyes! Or at least an inspiration, I would say...
There is something fascinating about 90's/2000's television series.
We return to those shows for the storylines, the nostalgia, the impossible apartments… But we often forget one essential detail : their style !
Their style isn’t about flashy fashion or passing trends, but a way of living that would have taken over Instagram if it had existed then—the kind that moves effortlessly with bodies, days, and moments. And at the center of it all, one detail keeps stealing the show: the pleat. On pants, on vests… pleats everywhere!
The pleat: a tailoring gesture before it was a fashion effect
Long before Joey, Chandler, or Jerry wore it on screen, the pleat was born in early 20th‑century tailoring workshops. Men were moving more, working differently, walking further, and constantly on the go. To meet these needs, tailors invented this subtle fold that added volume, freed the hips, and allowed trousers to move without pulling.
In the 1930s and 40s, the pleat became a hallmark of smart dressing around the world.
Then it disappeared, came back, vanished again… almost as if waiting for an era that could truly appreciate it.
And that era was the 90's
American TV shows did something unexpected: they brought the pleat back into everyday life.
Look closely:
Chandler from the TV show Friends is often seen wearing double‑pleated trousers paired with oversized sweaters throughout most of his time on screen.
Joey from the TV show Friends effortlessly switches between denim and roomy pleated cuts with style and ease.
Jerry Seinfeld, from the TV show Seinfeld, the accidental champion of wide, comfortable trousers.
Will Truman from the TV show Will & Grace embodies the modern New York silhouette—polished and tailored, yet effortlessly relaxed.
They realized something we’re rediscovering today: a well-cut, elegant trouser can be styled in many ways, not just with a shirt or a jacket.
They lived, laughed, ran, lingered in cafés, climbed stairs, argued, fell in love....and did it all with a style that was elegant yet effortless.
And their trousers just followed them.
To spot all those silhouettes in the series, sometimes all it takes is rewatching a few episodes and paying close attention to what the characters are wearing. The wide trousers, the pleats, the volumes… it has all been there, right in front of us, for the past thirty years.
For those wanting to dive deeper, there are some great YouTube videos that break down the looks of that era impressively. One standout is a compilation of the best fashion moments from Friends, which perfectly shows how ahead of their time these silhouettes were—without me having to use any copyrighted images (curse you, copyright!).
All The Best '90s Fashion Moments From Friends - YouTube
When some inventions disappear… and others return
The history of menswear is full of brilliant inventions that vanished — clever details designed to follow the body, erased by the speed and costs of mass production.
But that’s a topic worth exploring in another article, as it says a lot about the way we dress.
In the end, the pleat might have shared the same fate, but it survived because it meets a simple need: comfort and style recognition.
Does the pleat still have a place today?
We live in a world that loves simplicity, speed, clean silhouettes.
The pleat requires a little more: more fabric, more craftsmanship, more patience.
Now it’s making a comeback, as we realize that style isn’t about strict rules—it’s about freedom, just like the 90's series showed us with such vision back then.
A personal note: when homage becomes future
When I set out to create Gabardines Pantalons, I knew right away that the two-pleat pants had to be among the first pieces in the collection. Now, as I write this, that very pair has become a reliable favorite and a key influence in shaping my vision.
This is the reflection behind the concept of our Le New York pants, a contemporary trouser that brings the pleat back not as a memory, but as a style choice and a tribute.
A way to build on what tailors of the past created is to inspire future generations, encouraging them to craft something similar to what I’ve made, just as those before me did—and surely, it will be done.
Matteo Agostoni
Founder - Gabardines Pantalons